TRY telling envious colleagues there is no such thing as a free lunch.
Don’t realise you may have enjoyed some fine food and drink? But there comes a time when you still have to write about it!
However, tapping out some articles are more onerous than others and spreading the word about a hidden treasure in Thongsbridge is most definitely not a chore.
The eaterie in question is Devour at the Dyehouse, open less than 12 months, already occupying a spot in the 2020 Good Food Guide and now coming to the attention of Saddleworth ‘foodies’.
So, when owner Olivia Robinson offered a chance to sample some of the menu’s offerings, Independent editor Trevor Baxter happily set aside his usual dinnertime sarnie for a trip to Devour.
Nestling on the banks of the River Holme and just a mile outside Holmfirth and a 25-minute drive from Greenfield, Devour has quickly developed an outstanding reputation for cuisine whose roots are in the little-known Marche region of Italy.
“I have always been passionate about food,” explained Olivia. “I was brought up in a family where food is almost central to the day.
“A lot of the family are also in the food business. My grandfather set up a buffalo mozzarella farm in England, my uncle owns import and export food businesses and my grandma used to sell ice-cream.
“When I was 20, I wanted to open up a farm shop but had no money or experience behind me.”
Seventeen years on, Olivia has more than fulfilled her desire to make her mark in the food industry.
“Our food is Italian inspired with little twists of Yorkshire as I was born here,” explained Olivia, a mum of two.
Devour, open Wednesday to Sunday, employs 35 full and part-time staff and has more than carved out a niche in the community. It is a restaurant, bar, deli and food producer all rolled into one.
You can attend pizza and pasta making classes, enjoy special themed evenings and at the appropriate times of the year stroll in tree lined grounds filled with wildflowers.
And if you have overindulged on La Gran Carbonara, Costolette D’Agnello Alle Erbe (grilled lamb cutlets) or the numerous tempting Cicchetti (more of them later) there is a riverside path to stroll back towards Last of the Summer Wine country.
Devour opened on December 12, 2018 in the old dyehouse building belonging to Woodlands Mill. Both were derelict and unloved.
Now it is refurbished and cherished with Olivia’s interior design skills creating a rustic feel with its upcycled furniture, open plan outlook and an eye-catching clock that once hung in a Russian railway station.
Produce is sourced locally wherever possible, Broster’s Farm shop and Dark Woods coffee in Marsden are two independent suppliers.
Other ingredients come from further afield, including burrata cheese for the burrata pugliese cicchetti.
“Cicchetti, in Italian, means small plates,” explained Olivia. “A bit like Tapas.
“You can choose them as a starter or maybe pick two or three each. Lots of people are starting to buy into the idea.”
I chose the Arancini Sicilliani (deep fried rice balls) and Portofino Fritto Misto (king prawns and spicy chicken in light sesame chilli batter). A wise choice while Olivia cleared her plate of Tagliolini Tre Colore allo Scoglio with relish.
You must be logged in to post a comment.