Brian’s Coffee Corner: Sulawesi Kalossi

Brian Hockenhull, who runs Buckley’s Yard Coffee Shop at 2 New Street, Uppermill, talks about the world of coffee and introduces you to their Coffee of the Month.brian's coffee corner 

Visit Buckley’s Yard at New Street, Uppermill or phone Brian on 07973 155030 or email buckleysyarduppermill@gmail.com

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Something really exotic this month!

Sulawesi Kalossi coffee comes from the central mountains of the island of, you guessed it, Sulawesi – a large, weird finger-like shaped island in the middle of the Malay archipelago in Indonesia. Kalossi is a small town in central Sulawesi which serves as the collection point for the coffee.

Unlike many of Indonesia’s islands, Sulawesi is geologically ancient, dating back more than 100 million years. This long history has resulted in soils with a high iron content. Sulawesi roughly means Iron Island and it is the iron content that is thought to affect the unique flavour of this coffee.

Celebes is the old name of the island and is still commonly referred to as that today. This place is like no other, with fascinating traditions and amazing landscapes.

The island is largely populated by colourful indigenous people known as Toraja. The people build distinctively shaped houses and maintain ancient and complex rituals related to death and the afterlife.

This respect for tradition is also found in the way Sulawesi coffee farmers use a unique organic process called “giling basah” (wet hulling). Many of the coffee trees are more than 250 years old and originate from before the Dutch first arrived to the island. They are not grown on commercial plots but in backyards or small family plots in small quantities to give a unique taste and flavour.

However, It can be hard to source good Sulawesi coffees as the area is plagued with problems such as thieves, bandits and rough growing conditions.

So, how does it taste ?

I roast this coffee to a bold and sturdy dark roast, which brings out its true qualities. It really is a strong one! But by that I mean a strong aroma and flavour, with a heavy body and a creamy texture.

It is complex and earthy in taste, with low acidity and possesses full bodied, deep flavours and hints of black pepper. The mellow aftertaste coats the palate and is smooth and soft, lingering long after the coffee is gone.

This is great as an early morning wake-up call with toast or croissants to bring out the full flavour of this wonderful coffee. For adventurous folks, try a Sulewesi coffee with feta and spinach puff pastry during the day or evening.

For me, Sulawesi Kalossi has everything I look for from a strong coffee and I will be roasting this over the next few months not just to sell but also as one of flavours to feature in my unique 2014 Festive Blend.